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Antigua
Paradise Found
written and photographed by Monica S. Geraci


Like a rare gem, the Inn at English Harbour is cloistered on the coastal southwestern tip of Antigua, an island in the West Indies said to be "the heart of the Caribbean." When I arrived, I realized true paradise really does exist. Although I am not alone in my discovery (it is a choice destination for many noteworthy glitterati), I have found a special place of rare extreme beauty where the views are unobstructed and the northeast trade winds are steady.

In Antigua, the temperatures range from the 70s in the winter to the 80s in the summer. Annual rainfall averages only 45 inches, making it the sunniest of the Eastern Caribbean Islands. It is rich with history, legends, a bounty of exotic fruit and a wealth of pristine white-sand coastline.

The Inn at English Harbour is located where the wind and water create a constant symphony of sight and sound. It embraces English Harbour, a serene enclave and sought-after spot for sailing enthusiasts to rest their anchors. Being a protected national park, motors are prohibited in the bay to safeguard vacationing ears. On any given day, there are about a dozen sailboats delicately dancing on the glimmering blue water, their sails flapping rhythmically in the warm breeze.

A stroll around the curved stretch of sand around English Harbour causes a mood-altering calm, and the emerald hillside offers intimate seclusion with the natural world. A must-experience moment is to jump on one of the Inn's lilylike floating rafts a few feet from the shore and gently rock under the sun with the hypnotizing waves — looking around to find yourself surrounded by lush mountains and endless blue from sea to sky.

The exclusive, all-suite boutique resort has stunning colonialstyle architecture stretching over 19 pristine acres of seclusion. It offers 28 palatially proportioned rooms with dark mahogany floors and plantation shutters to flood in the light. You will enjoy a home away from home — well-stocked refrigerator, flat-screen television, Internet, iPod docking station, luxurious bedding and toiletries, and a spa-like shower. Every suite has a large, private balcony or veranda that opens up to a vision of paradise — a perfect place to take in a cool evening breeze after a day in the sun. There are also a pair of cabana suites to choose from, each with two rooms directly on the ocean. Breakfast is included, which you can savor in-room or at The Reef oceanfront restaurant for a morning dose of the good life.

All of the spacious suites are carefully appointed with a charming classic English style, seamlessly mixed with poignant Balinese pieces giving both an exotic island feel and clean, refreshed state of mind.

The relaxation area is the entire outdoor space, but there are also spa treatment rooms for the well-deserved massage or facial. Meandering through the property, you will find it reminiscent of an Italian villa and attended to impeccably. Outdoor showers await to replenish you, and the impressive native flora abundantly envelops you in island bliss.

Paved pathways lead you to special places, such as the infinity pool overlooking the turquoise bay, clay tennis courts that are well-lit for nighttime matches, a fitness center, and a private entertainment room/ business center boasting a library of books, computer, DVDs, a large flat-screen television, board games and very comfortable couches — a decadent retreat from the mid-day sun.

During my stay, a life-size chess set was delivered and pieces were strategically placed around the "chess deck" just outside the entertainment room — a place to unwind, sip tea, read, watch a tennis match or just stare at the encompassing mountainous view.

I found repose in one of the hammocks surrounding the infinity pool which I allowed myself to sway in with one foot in the sand and stare at the sea, which seemed to whisper to me, "Come in, the water is fine."

The Inn at English Harbour provides complimentary kayaking and snorkeling and can arrange special excursions at your request. The staff are gracious hosts and their goal is to make your experience effortless and highly personalized. Activities, such as scuba diving, waterskiing, Sunfish sailing, deepsea fishing, rain forest canopy tours, catamaran cruises, eco tours and helicopter rides, are all at your beck and call. The inn's courtesy shuttle is a water taxi ready to take you to historic Nelson's Dockyard or for a refreshing cruise around the harbor.

A walk along the western peninsula leads you to a stunning geological structure called the "Pillars of Hercules," where the soft sandstone cliffs have been eroded into a spectacular formation. Below the "pillars" is a sought-after dive site teeming with marine life and coral growth.

The resort offers two dining experiences: The Reef oceanfront restaurant and the Stone Bar and Terrace restaurant farther up the hill, where you dine with the stars. Each dish is finely tuned and consistently exceptional. Specializing in Caribbean-inspired and international cuisine, the executive chef uses only the freshest, most vibrant local ingredients. I often chose the homemade hummus and fresh fish of the day with grilled vegetables, and each time thought, "This is the best meal I have ever had."

Raw, scenic beauty has a profound effect on the mind, body and soul, and it is bountiful here. It inspired me to take my first helicopter ride — over the highly volcanic island of Montserrat to the south of Antigua. This mustexperience adventure features an up-close encounter with the Soufriere Hills Volcano at 3,000 feet. The volcano has erupted continuously since 1995. Jaw-dropping vistas, where lava flows have transformed the earth, and the remains of Plymouth, the abandoned former capital now buried under 40 feet of ash, are observed from the flight.

The visually surprising landscape — harsh and windswept — is rare and intriguing. On the way back, the pilot spotted two humpback whales — mother and child — traveling peacefully through the vast blue ocean. He swooped down to give us a closer look, and I was moved to tears. It was one of the best days of my life.

Come here to indulge. To rest. To play. To explore. To breathe. Come here to have an authentic island paradise experience far removed from the rest of the world, where your day can consist of watching hummingbirds while enjoying a breakfast of ripe, juicy papaya, pineapple and passion fruit.

It is a return to the simple sweetness of life. Whether you call it Eden, Shangri-la, Utopia or paradise, you will find it here — the Inn at English Harbour, Antigua — the Caribbean's best-kept secret.

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